Procida, the little island that could, pushed forward, reached its potential and it was recently chosen the Italian Capital of Culture in 2022. Obviously a great opportunity for another trip down the memory lane and down the stuffed rabbit hole that is our photo hard drive.

Procida is the smallest inhabited island in the Bay of Naples. Its better-known neighbour Capri is usually stealing the show, being a tad more sophisticated, richer and popular.

*“7 billion smiles and yours is my favourite” Check out the* *photo gallery* *for more graffiti mozzarelliness.*

Little Procida is simpler, more ingenuous, more colorful and authentic. Geography-wise, it is flatter and smaller than Capri (about half its size), while Capri is in turn about a quarter the size of big island Ischia. Posh Capri is also the odd-one out among the islands near Naples, because it is the only one not of volcanic origin.

Where to begin on Procida?

Your visit starts in the Porto (Marina), and from there you can either hike up to your lodging or take the local mini-bus or a micro-taxi. If you're versed on two wheels, you may also rent a scooter, a bike, or even an e-bike, a more recent option. You may have noticed the emphasis on “mini“ transport. Besides the narrow (less than two mini-cars wide) and uphill streets, you also need to be aware of the the cobblestone and the sharp turns. And all the pedestrians, who share the road with the wheelers, because who has all that space to spare with sidewalks?

*We voted and unanimously decided that a Piaggio tuk-tuk is the best way to move around a Mediterranean island.*

*Can you spot the prickly beast? No, not the cactus!*

On the way to your hotel, B&B or casa vacanza, make a mental note about the local shop, alimentari, salumeria or enoteca. Don’t be picky, they are rare and precious and that will be your permanent wine and antipasti dealer during your stay.

Next day: start exploring.

Marina di Corricella, with Terra Murata up on the hill to the left.
Way far on the horizon you can spot the unmistakably curt shape of the cliffs below Villa Jovis in Capri.

There are 6 beaches on Procida, each to be visited at various times of the day. In the morning have your ultraviolets and coffee in Marina Corricella and then hit the dark grainy sand of Spiaggia della Chiaia on the east side:

Lunch will be well spent on the cooler northern side, on either beach flanking the Porto, while the afternoon is for the little half-moon strip of sand of Spiaggia Pozzo Vecchio, also known as Il Postino beach.

Sunset can be best seen on the long western beaches and you can have dinner in the little but animated Marina Chiaiolella.

*The two dark shapes on the left side are* ***Vivara****, Procida’s satellite island, now a crescent-shaped nature reserve (actually the remains of a volcanic crater), and further back the peak of Mount* ***Epomeo*** *on island Ischia.*

What else is there to do do in Procida?

You mean, besides sunbathing, swimming, catching up on your reading while having a gelato or an ice-cold espresso, and dining on pizza and/or a big blob of mozzarella di buffala campana with tomatoes?

This ice-cold espresso was literally icy coffee extorted out of a bag from the bottom of the freezer. 50 euro cent coin for size.
Yes, we’re used to the Greek-sized café frappé. Thimble-sized coffees intimidate us.

After you’ve spent your lazy time doing the above (and repeating a couple of times), you can do some gallivanting. The little island can be easily covered in one day, but take it easy. It’s not a race and time goes slowly on Procida.

Up on the tallest hill there’s Terra Murata, the medieval fortified village (Casale Vascello) walled in to protect the locals from the Saracen invasions. Next to it there’s the former Palazzo d'Avalos prison.

*Abbazia San Michele Arcangelo, a 16-century abbey, hidden deep in the colourful heart of the walled Casale Vascello*

Make this trip late in the afternoon and on your way back you’ll be treated to a warm colourful sunset over Marina di Corricella:

Look for the Postman and Mr. Ripley. Being under the tourists’ radar pays off: Procida has served as a genuine Italian-Mediterranean backdrop for many movies. Two of these movies are The Talented Mr. Ripley and Il postino / The Postman. While Mr. Ripley is famously elusive, you can find The Postman at the locanda named after him in the colourful Marina di Corricella or at the Pozzo Vecchio beach, also known as Spiaggia del Postino:

Have a sit in a piazetta with a gelato and just look around. And although it’s not polite to eavesdrop, the dialogue between several neighbours, yelled across the street from balcony to balcony, is not quite a private moment, so you can thoroughly indulge in this intrinsically Italian cordiality. For a second it will make you feel like you’re part of this pastoral retreat, and not just an avid intruding tourist.

Lastly, remember you’re one short boat ride away (~20 min.) from Ischia, hop on a traghetto or aliscafo and make a day of it.

And when your Neapolitan holiday is over and you take off, make sure you look inside the cone of Vesuvius, to remind you that everything you saw was created by a very energetic volcano. Or four.