The Christmas market in Dresden has the most appropriate name for such a joyous seasonal event: Striezelmarkt, literally Stollen Market. (Not a typo there, try to read that as “Stollen-the-most-awesome-Christmas-fruit-cake-evah”-market). For what is more delicious than a soft and rich sweet slice of Stollen cake, next to a hot fragrant cup of Glühwein?

‘Sausages’, says Husband in voice-over. ‘So many sausages.’

Yes, those too, but hold that thought. Back to our Dresdner Striezelmarkt for a bit. It’s the oldest Christmas market in the world, officially dating back to 1434, which would make it 585 years old this year! And with age and prestige comes a lot of popularity, with a big slice of responsibility, too. It’s one of the largest and most varied traditional Christmas settings, designed with an amazing attention to details, and boasting an impressive participation, both tourist-wise and from the local producers’ side.

And what’s even better, is that in Dresden there’s not just one Christmas market, but at least five!

- the Striezelmarkt in the Altmarkt
- the Advent on the Neumarkt
- the market on Münzgasse
- the medieval Christmas market
- the Augustusmarkt

1. The main attraction, Striezelmarkt.

Takes place in the large Old Square, Altmarkt. Has dozens of Christmas huts, all decorated in minute detail and buried under mountains of merchandise, most of it locally-made or -sourced. The best thing are the custom-made pediments, each hut proudly wearing a dedicated ornament according to its particular purpose (a nice selection of the best huts can be seen in the main gallery slideshow, link below).

You can easily spend hours here. A little hot snack and some mulled wine, some Christmas tree ornament shopping, another wine, a quick ride on the mini-Ferris wheel, how about a sausage with a side of sauerkraut? Sure, I’m bringing the garlicky langos, oh, look, they have eggnog, mmmm, Kräppelchen, omg, I gotta have that wooden nutcracker, hey, how about an extra-spiked punch (mit Schuss) for the road? Yes, let’s do that again tomorrow.

2. The Advent on the Neumarkt

Takes place in the equally large New Square, Neumarkt, next to the beautiful Frauenkirche. Less colourful and glittery, but far from lacking jolliness and Christmas mood, it is more local-artisan and craft-oriented and has a natural, down-to-earth quality. Even the food stalls’ offer is less conventional and more hand-made and traditional. We had some excellent goulash and pumpkin soup here. In bread bowls, of course.

3. The Christmas market on Münzgasse

Practically an extension of the previous one, a little higher up north from the church, it is fun because it’s narrow and crowded, and everything intermingles: the delightful smell of the slowly rotating trdelnik (also known as Kürtőskalács in Hungary and Romania or Baumstriezel in Germany or just plain spit cake) blending with the equally delicious smell of the grilled Thüringer Rostbratwurst, and the sweet roast almonds and hot chestnuts, and the melting cheese raclette, and the sound of your buttons popping one… by… one.

4. The Medieval Market at the palace

The Mittelalter-Weihnachtmarkt takes place in the eastern couryard of the Dresden Palace, in what is called the Stallhof, the stable yard. It is completely separated from the other markets and one must pay a small fee to enter. But feareth not, weary stranger. Thy expectations shall be met and even exceeded, for many treasures await thee in the dimly lit stable yard, where in purses jingle thalers, not euros, and man inebriates himself with mead, while munching on a Mutzbraten pig… parteth.

And hark! is yond’ the sweet sound of zithers and lutes? Wherefore aye, for a band of minstrels did step out on the fair stage, tickling our ears with longeth forgotten lieds. And a dram metal folk.

Definitely the best market. Especially if it starts snowing!

5. The Augustusmarkt

The Augustusmarkt takes place across the Augustus bridge and the Elbe, stretching along the main pedestrian street of the new town, Inner Neustadt. With the least glam and glitz, but not without its charm, it is the most grounded and practical market, for those who are just looking for a quick bite and some unfussy seasonal shopping to stuff the pantry.

Speaking of pantry stuffing, fun fact to end on the same Stollen note: in medieval times it used to be a staple food during fasting periods. So… no animal-related products allowed in the recipe. That’s when it comes handy to have an epicurean prince. For he asked the Pope to revoke the ban on butter, which allowed the local bakers to make without restrictions the same rich cake, which was once a year made in a larger version and gifted to the ruler of the land. That’s how the Dresdner Christstollen got his delicious reputation, too.

Some 2-3 hundred years later, the elector Augustus, another Stollen-loving prince, asked to have a giant Stollen. And he got one. A 1,8 ton one. Nowadays there’s a Stollen festival every year (with a ceremonial first slice and a Stollen procession) and they still remember Augustus’ giant Stollen, which was however dethroned in 2010, when a new record was set, with a 4,2 ton Stollen. Only in Dresden.

Conclusions

We had the best time in Dresden’s Weihnachtsmärkte. They are in our top 3 Christmas Markets, competing with Nürnberg Christkindlesmarkt and Christmas in Rothenburg ob der Tauber. The jury is still out on that one.

What makes the Dresden Christmas Market so special is its magic and authenticity. It’s not the “seen one, seen’ em all“ Christmas market. Most such fairs eagerly claim the quality “Winterzauber“ (winter enchantment), however, I have so far only seen it real in Dresden.

Because it’s not only about Christmas, not in the present day perception of it. You can still feel the centuries-long tradition of a winter fair, when local craftsmen and producers gathered in the town market with smoked meats and sweets, with loaves of bread and wheels of cheese, dried fruit (and probably some Pflaumentoffel, the good luck charms made out of prunes) with wooden-carved toys (another local tradition still prized in Germany, especially in the Erzgebirge/ Ore Mountains), with Lebkuchen (gingerbread) and Stollen, beeswax candles and incense-burning “smokers“ (Räuchermännchen). All wrapped in the sweet spicy aroma of the hot Glühwein.

’And sausages. So many sausages.’

Go check out more photos in the gallery: Christmas Markets in Dresden
For a quick preview just click through the slideshow below: